Wednesday, June 19, 2019

How to make an epoxy resin and wood ring










Tools and materials I propose:



I made my ring using clear casting resin and niangon wood. 

First of all I had to break my wood on the vise. I pressed it against a few metal parts. I found that if you break the piece from both sides, you get a nice broken edge for this kind of job.

Then I mixed some resin and coated the picks on my wood. I let it dry over night and the next I was ready for my casting. At this point the first layer of resin was not fully cured, so the two layers will bond really nicely. 

I mixed my resin and degassed it on the vacuum chamber. 

In a plastic mold I secured the wood with tape so it can’t float in the resin. Then I poured the resin into the mold. I degassed it again on the vacuum chamber.

I used a fosrtner bit to make the hole for the finger. Then I cut the ring on the bandsaw and roughly shaped it on the belt sander.

I sanded the ring starting at 100 grit all the way up at 1000. At 320 I begun sanding with mineral oil.  I then used my micro mesh sanding pads which go from 1500 to 12000 grit.

Finally I buffed the ring on my buffing wheels. The wheels were mounted on the lathe. 

This was my first ring and I am really happy with the way it came out. It’s not perfect but it was a really rewarding process to make it.

But that was it, I hope you liked this one because that was it, see you soon with a new project video.



Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, that at no cost to you, I get a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.

Friday, June 14, 2019

How to make two simple bed side tables











Tools and materials I propose:
Table Legs
Birch Edge Banding
Bandsaw
Table saw
Cordless drill
Speed square
Belt sander
Block plane
Masking tape
Dowel center pin
6mm dowels
Heat gun
Air compressor, nail and staple gun kit


I wanted to make a couple of simple bed side tables.

This project was also a good excuse for me, to practice edge banding.

I used 15mm plywood pieces for most parts. The legs have also 25mm plywood discs. 

I bought my lumber cut roughly to size. I then cut the rest to final size on my table saw. 

Then it was time to edge band some edges in order to hide the classic pattern on the sides of plywood.

Edge banding is basically a tape. On it’s front it has a wood pattern and on it’s back it has adhesive which melts with heat. 

For the plywood I got, the closest grain match was oak. So I got some oak edge banding. 

First of all I marked all the sides I wanted to edge band. An iron works best for this technique but I couldn’t find one in the beginning of the project. So I used my heat gun instead. I first heated underneath the tape a little and then placed the banding on the edge. Then I heated some more and used a flat piece to press on the wood. Fortunately I got an iron at some point and I secured the banding in place.

Once the banding is glued, you can use a razor or a hand plane to trim it flush. You can also use a trim router for this job.

I wanted to join all my pieces with 6mm dowels. So first I made a simple jig which is clamped on my vise and helps me align the pieces easier. I then made my first holes and then used my dowel center pins and the jig to create marks for the matching holes. Once I was done with all the drilling I glued everything together. I like to clean the glue squeeze outs with a wet rag. 

At this point I filled some imperfections of the wood with wood filler. On this project I wanted the grain of the wood parallel to the sides. So the lumber yard guy had to do some cross cuts on the plywood. This created some tear out.

I then lightly sanded the pieces and applied three coats of clear water based satin varnish. I used my heat gun to speed up the drying process and I lightly sanded between coats.

I then had to cut 8 discs out of 25mm plywood. These provided me with enough mass, so I could screw the legs in place. I cut them on the bandsaw and then sanded them on the belt sander.

I covered the discs with some edge banding as well. This didn’t work so great but it did it’s job.

To help me easily align the discs I made another jig. I then glued and nailed the discs in place. I then predrilled pilot holes and screwed the legs in place. 

And basically I was done. The legs were a little bit expensive but I think they add some elegance to the pieces.

I am really happy with the way my simple side tables came out. 

But that was it, see you soon with a new project video!


Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, that at no cost to you, I get a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.

Friday, June 7, 2019

How to make a small wooden chair for your kids - DIY












Tools and materials I propose:


I made my little chair out of reclaimed pine lumber. You can use pre planed clean lumber, straight from your lumber yard.

First of all I had to make the wood useable again. I first removed any nails. Then I cut it roughly to size with my circular saw and a speed square. 

I then ripped the boards to width on the table saw. I squared all the ends with my cross cut sled. Finally I passed all the boards, through the thickness planer. 

I then started designing my chair. I made all the cross cuts on the table saw. You can also use a miter box and a hand saw. I cut the angled parts on the bandsaw and then sanded them on the belt sander. Alternatively you can use a chisel and a hand plane and achieve the same result. 

I then cut the side pieces. I used 8mm dowels to connect all the parts together. I first named all my joints. Then I drilled the first holes, added the center pins and then drilled the matching holes. 

I then glued the sides of my chair. 

I used a washer as a guide to draw curves on the edges. I then rounded over the edges on the belt sander.

Next I had to cut some notches for the back rest. I used the bandsaw to do that. Alternatively you can make a series of cross cuts and then remove as much material as you can with a chisel. In both cases finish the job with a sanding block.

Then I cut the cleats on which the seat of the chair rests upon. I did that on the table saw. I glued them in place and added dowels for extra strength. I cut the dowels flush, with a flush trim saw. 

Finally I glued the main body of the chair together. Again using 8mm dowels.

On the table saw again, I cut the pieces for the seat and the back rest. 

I glued and nailed the seat pieces in place. I had a small gap which I filled with a thin piece. I used a block plane and a chisel to trim it flush.

I filled all the imperfections with wood filler.

Finally I started sanding with my random orbit sander. Once I sanded most parts I glued and nailed the back rest in place. I also used screws here. But first I drilled pilot holes and created counter sinks.

I finished sanding.

To make the chair sit nicely on a flat surface I glued a shim on one leg. I trimmed it flush with a chisel and sandpaper. 

I then masked the areas around the back rest and the seat. I painted with latex paint. It is important to paint from the tape to the wood in order to achieve really sharp edges. I applied two coats while lightly sanding between coats. The heat gun helps to speed up the drying process. 

Finally, I finished my chair with two coats of clear water based varnish.

At this point my chair was ready. It came out great. The only thing I would change is the screws on the back rest. I thing dowels would do just fine.

Anyway, I hope you liked my little chair, because that was it. See you soon with a new project video.


Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, that at no cost to you, I get a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.