Tuesday, February 26, 2019

Make a simple DIY rolling cabinet out of OSB

Tools and materials I propose: Circular saw

Over the past few months, I have accumulated many new tools in my shop. So I needed a new cabinet to keep things out of my way while I work. 

I made this simple cabinet out of 15mm OSB, lots of screws, casters and a piano hinge.

I had my material cut to rough size on the lumberyard. 

I used my corner clamps, to keep the sides together, while I glue and nail the carcass of my cabinet. I kept checking that everything was square. 

The back panel was too large to fit in my car. So I had it cut in half. I put the back in place, using nails and glue.

At this point  the cabinet was strong enough to add the screws. I predrilled pilot holes, countersunked them and added the screws. 

The back panel had an exceeding side. I secured my guide rail place and cut it with the circular saw. Then I added a flush trim bit on my router, and trimmed it flush.

It was a good time to add the casters. Mostly because I can move the cabinet out of the way while I work on other parts of the build.

The screws I used for the casters, were longer than needed, so I trimmed them flush with my angle grinder.

Next I cut the shelves to size on my table saw. I wanted them to fit loosely. I also cut three support pieces for each shelf. I used a scrap piece as a spacer, to position the supports in place without measuring. I glued and nailed the supports in place. Then I also added screws for extra strength.

Back on the table saw, I cut a vertical piece. This will support the front edges of the shelves to prevent them from bending over time. I also cut grooves on the tables saw so the shelves would fit in. I glued, nailed and screwed the front piece in place. 

To cut the doors to size, I clamped them together. I used my circular saw and my guide rail, to cut both doors at once. 

I wanted to attach the doors with piano hinges. So I glued and nailed a stripe of OSB to gain some meat for the hinges. I first lifted the door with my foot, then added two support nails in place and a clamp. Then I added one screw on the top edge of the hinge and one on the bottom edge. I then added the rest of the screws in a zig zag pattern.

I cut my hinge to size, with the angle grinder. 

After I installed the doors, I pulled out the nails I had added earlier. 

Keeping stuff in analogy with each other makes your designs look better. So I made the latch two times wider than the OSB stripe of the door side.

I cut the latch pieces on the table saw and glued and nailed them in place. The latch is just screwed on one door. 

I gave everything a rough sanding with my angle grinder. Basically I just removed the sharp edges and fixed some imperfections.

My cabinet was ready. I hope you found this project useful.

But that was it, see you soon, with a new project video!

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, that at no cost to you, I get a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.

Monday, February 18, 2019

Make a different spinning top without a lathe

3D carver links:

Tools and materials I propose:

I have always loved spinning tops. To make most of them, you need a lathe. So I decided to make one that can be made without a lathe. It can be made with simple tools as a fret saw but I made it using my Inventables 3D carver.

I begun by designing the vector templates of my top. Next I imported my design into Easel. Easel is the online software my 3D carver uses. I imported my template as an SVG file and set the machine, to cut outside the lines. I chose my cutting bit and run a simulation, to see how the machine was planning to carve.

For this project, I used 5mm plywood.

It is important for the material to be secure and flat. So add as many clamps as you have to. I then homed the machine manually, and started carving.

The carving session leaves a few tabs on the piece. I removed the tabs using a chisel.

I did three carving sessions. Each time I changed my design a little bit, until my joints fitted nicely.

I sanded my top with 100 grit sand paper. I also made a sanding file using a popsicle stick, double sided tape and sandpaper. 

I then glued the parts of my spinning top together.

If you don’t have a cnc machine, you can still create an easel account, enter my Inventables project page and download the templates of my top. Next you can glue them on a piece of plywood using spray adhesive.

To cut the templates, you can use a scroll saw or a fret saw. In both cases you need to drill you saw blade’s entry holes. If you use the bandsaw for the outer lines, be extra careful, because you will be cutting small pieces and your hand will be extremely close to the blade.

If you use the fret saw, make a small bench jig to help you out. A set of small files will also be handy for you to finish shaping.

Next I wanted to make different tops for my top’s top. So I used a V carving bit, to carve a few different designs. I then changed to the straight bit again to cut the shapes out.

I painted the caps with latex paint. I like latex paint, because it is water based, doesn’t smell bad and it dries really fast. To speed up the drying process, you can use the heat gun.

To remove the excess paint, I just sanded the pieces.

The different designs, produce different animation effects, as the top spins. I really like the spirals most.

My tops came out great and spin for a really long time. I really enjoyed this project and I hope you’ll make a few similar tops yourselves.

At this point I would like to thank Inventables for sponsoring this project.

But that was it, see you soon with a new project video!

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, that at no cost to you, I get a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.

Tuesday, February 12, 2019

How to make a resin and olive wood ring pendant

Tools and materials I propose:

A while ago, a friend of mine sent me a beautiful highly figured piece, of olive wood. 

I thought it would be a cool idea to make something out of resin and olive wood.

I went to the bandsaw and cut a small piece of the wood. I also cut the plexiglass on the bandsaw. The plexi would be my mold. 

I glued the mold pieces together with my hot glue. I sealed all the sides with hot glue.

I then added water into the mold, to make sure I had no leaks. 

To prevent the wood from floating into the resin, I hot glued it into the mold. 

I used casting resin for this project. It was one part A and one part B. I mixed the two parts into a third container and added a couple of drops of yellow dye. I mixed everything really well.

Then I degassed my resin in my vacuum chamber. Most people will argue that a pressure pot is better for that job. They are probably right. But that’s what I had.

Anyway I then poured the resin into my mold, and degassed it again in my vacuum chamber. 

I let the resin fully cure for about three days. Although I am still learning the degassing process, my casting was really clear. It is actually the most clear casting I have ever produced.

Then I drew a circle on my casting and cut it out on the bandsaw. 

I glued my blank on a wood block which was mounted on my chuck’s jaws.

At last, I could begin turning my piece. The round scraper, really does a nice job when turning resin. 

I then gradually hollowed the inside of my ring, using forstner bits.

At this point I sanded the interior of my ring. 

Then I parted the ring off the lathe.

I shaped the block into a cone, on which my ring fitted snuggly. I then made two relief cuts with my hacksaw.

Next I made an adapter for my tailstock. When the tailstock pushes against the block they hold the ring in place.

I finished shaping the ring and sanded it on the lathe until 320 grit.

I then wet sanded it with mineral oil until I reached 1000grit.

At this point I used my micro mesh sanding pads which go from 1500 to 12000grit.

I cut a stripe of leather and created a loop for my pendant. 

I am really happy with the outcome. I think this figured olive wood is ideal for these resin art projects.

But that was it, see you soon, with a new project video.

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, that at no cost to you, I get a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.

Thursday, February 7, 2019

How to make a fingertip spinning top

Tools and materials I propose:

A while ago, a friend showed me a fingertip spinning top. He bought it from a Greek maker. So the credit for this idea goes to him.

I first made a few prototypes and now I can show you, how to make one yourselves. 

I begun by trueing up an iroko wood blank. I used the bowl gouge. I also used the skew to make the tenon for the chuck.

In order for the top to work, the tip needs to be sharp. The tip also needs to be located under the surface of the bottom, so it cannot brake in case the top drops.

I first created a slight curve with the bowl gouge. Then I shaped the bottom with the spindle gouge. This was end grain, so I took my time.

Next I established my measurements with the parting tool, and removed material fast with a flat scraper. I just used a regular chisel.

The rest of the shaping was mostly spindle gouge work.

I sanded with 100 and 220grit.

Then I finished my piece with beeswax friction polish. You just rub the wax against the wood. Then you take a paper towel and push against the wood. The lathe needs to run on high speed. The friction melts the wax which goes into the pores of the wood and creates a shiny finish. Use the paper towel a few times until you remove the excess wax.

Next I parted the piece of the lathe.

I reversed chuck the top to clean the handle. But first I added a cloth to make sure the jaws would not leave marks on my top.

Next I had to balance the top. I used my hacksaw to cut a small metal piece out of a nail. This acts as a weight. I then temporarily taped the weight on the top. I placed the nail in several locations around the top. Finally I drilled a hole and glued the nail in the position on which the top seemed to balance better. I add one more nail until the top felt nicely balanced. This makes the top spin nicer and for longer time.

Last but not least I made a display. This is just a conical piece of wood on which the top can spin. I made the cone with the skew and finished shaping with the spindle gouge. I finished it again with friction wax polish.

This was an easy but interesting project! The top is really fun to play with.

But that was it, see you soon, with a new project video.

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, that at no cost to you, I get a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.