Make a different spinning top without a lathe

3D carver links:

Project templates and CNC file

Easel

X-Carve

Inventables

Tools and materials I propose:

Fret saw

Scroll saw

Forstner bit set

Hand saw

Cordless drill

Bandsaw

Heat gun

Cutting board

Small files set

I have always loved spinning tops. To make most of them, you need a lathe. So I decided to make one that can be made without a lathe. It can be made with simple tools as a fret saw but I made it using my Inventables 3D carver.

I begun by designing the vector templates of my top. Next I imported my design into Easel. Easel is the online software my 3D carver uses. I imported my template as an SVG file and set the machine, to cut outside the lines. I chose my cutting bit and run a simulation, to see how the machine was planning to carve.

For this project, I used 5mm plywood.

It is important for the material to be secure and flat. So add as many clamps as you have to. I then homed the machine manually, and started carving.

The carving session leaves a few tabs on the piece. I removed the tabs using a chisel.

I did three carving sessions. Each time I changed my design a little bit, until my joints fitted nicely.

I sanded my top with 100 grit sand paper. I also made a sanding file using a popsicle stick, double sided tape and sandpaper. 

I then glued the parts of my spinning top together.

If you don’t have a cnc machine, you can still create an easel account, enter my Inventables project page and download the templates of my top. Next you can glue them on a piece of plywood using spray adhesive.

To cut the templates, you can use a scroll saw or a fret saw. In both cases you need to drill you saw blade’s entry holes. If you use the bandsaw for the outer lines, be extra careful, because you will be cutting small pieces and your hand will be extremely close to the blade.

If you use the fret saw, make a small bench jig to help you out. A set of small files will also be handy for you to finish shaping.

Next I wanted to make different tops for my top’s top. So I used a V carving bit, to carve a few different designs. I then changed to the straight bit again to cut the shapes out.

I painted the caps with latex paint. I like latex paint, because it is water based, doesn’t smell bad and it dries really fast. To speed up the drying process, you can use the heat gun.

To remove the excess paint, I just sanded the pieces.

The different designs, produce different animation effects, as the top spins. I really like the spirals most.

My tops came out great and spin for a really long time. I really enjoyed this project and I hope you’ll make a few similar tops yourselves.

At this point I would like to thank Inventables for sponsoring this project.

But that was it, see you soon with a new project video!

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, that at no cost to you, I get a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.

How to make a resin and olive wood ring pendant

Tools and materials I propose:

Vacuum chamber kit

Resin

Micro mesh sanding pads

Lathe

Wood turning tools set

Chisel set

hacksaw

Bandsaw

Forstner bit set

Hot glue gun

Cutting board

A while ago, a friend of mine sent me a beautiful highly figured piece, of olive wood. 

I thought it would be a cool idea to make something out of resin and olive wood.

I went to the bandsaw and cut a small piece of the wood. I also cut the plexiglass on the bandsaw. The plexi would be my mold. 

I glued the mold pieces together with my hot glue. I sealed all the sides with hot glue.

I then added water into the mold, to make sure I had no leaks. 

To prevent the wood from floating into the resin, I hot glued it into the mold. 

I used casting resin for this project. It was one part A and one part B. I mixed the two parts into a third container and added a couple of drops of yellow dye. I mixed everything really well.

Then I degassed my resin in my vacuum chamber. Most people will argue that a pressure pot is better for that job. They are probably right. But that’s what I had.

Anyway I then poured the resin into my mold, and degassed it again in my vacuum chamber. 

I let the resin fully cure for about three days. Although I am still learning the degassing process, my casting was really clear. It is actually the most clear casting I have ever produced.

Then I drew a circle on my casting and cut it out on the bandsaw. 

I glued my blank on a wood block which was mounted on my chuck’s jaws.

At last, I could begin turning my piece. The round scraper, really does a nice job when turning resin. 

I then gradually hollowed the inside of my ring, using forstner bits.

At this point I sanded the interior of my ring. 

Then I parted the ring off the lathe.

I shaped the block into a cone, on which my ring fitted snuggly. I then made two relief cuts with my hacksaw.

Next I made an adapter for my tailstock. When the tailstock pushes against the block they hold the ring in place.

I finished shaping the ring and sanded it on the lathe until 320 grit.

I then wet sanded it with mineral oil until I reached 1000grit.

At this point I used my micro mesh sanding pads which go from 1500 to 12000grit.

I cut a stripe of leather and created a loop for my pendant. 

I am really happy with the outcome. I think this figured olive wood is ideal for these resin art projects.

But that was it, see you soon, with a new project video.

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, that at no cost to you, I get a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.

How to make a fingertip spinning top

Tools and materials I propose:

Lathe

Bowl gouge

Wood turning tools set

Chisel set

Beeswax

hacksaw

A while ago, a friend showed me a fingertip spinning top. He bought it from a Greek maker. So the credit for this idea goes to him.

I first made a few prototypes and now I can show you, how to make one yourselves. 

I begun by trueing up an iroko wood blank. I used the bowl gouge. I also used the skew to make the tenon for the chuck.

In order for the top to work, the tip needs to be sharp. The tip also needs to be located under the surface of the bottom, so it cannot brake in case the top drops.

I first created a slight curve with the bowl gouge. Then I shaped the bottom with the spindle gouge. This was end grain, so I took my time.

Next I established my measurements with the parting tool, and removed material fast with a flat scraper. I just used a regular chisel.

The rest of the shaping was mostly spindle gouge work.

I sanded with 100 and 220grit.

Then I finished my piece with beeswax friction polish. You just rub the wax against the wood. Then you take a paper towel and push against the wood. The lathe needs to run on high speed. The friction melts the wax which goes into the pores of the wood and creates a shiny finish. Use the paper towel a few times until you remove the excess wax.

Next I parted the piece of the lathe.

I reversed chuck the top to clean the handle. But first I added a cloth to make sure the jaws would not leave marks on my top.

Next I had to balance the top. I used my hacksaw to cut a small metal piece out of a nail. This acts as a weight. I then temporarily taped the weight on the top. I placed the nail in several locations around the top. Finally I drilled a hole and glued the nail in the position on which the top seemed to balance better. I add one more nail until the top felt nicely balanced. This makes the top spin nicer and for longer time.

Last but not least I made a display. This is just a conical piece of wood on which the top can spin. I made the cone with the skew and finished shaping with the spindle gouge. I finished it again with friction wax polish.

This was an easy but interesting project! The top is really fun to play with.

But that was it, see you soon, with a new project video.

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, that at no cost to you, I get a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.

How to make linoleum stamps - DIY

Tools and materials I propose:

linoleum block

Linoleum chisel set

Inks in various colors

Roller Brayer

Baren

Cutting board

Chisel set

Sharpening kit

leather strop

Lathe

Wood turning tools set

Hole saw

Block plane

3D carver links:

CNC templates

Easel

X-Carve

Inventables

In this video I explore a couple of methods on how to make linoleum stamps. Some more DIY and some involving more advanced techniques. 

Linoleum is an awesome material to use in block printing. It comes in a few variations. Some are harder than others. The difference between carving wood and linoleum, is that wood is harder and you have to pay attention to the grain direction as you carve.

First of all you must transfer your design on linoleum. I print it out and use a pencil to add graphite on it’s back side. I use a soft 2B pencil. Then I secure the printout on the linoleum and trace over it with another pencil. This leaves the trace on the linoleum. Please note that stamps print their mirrored image. So your design must be flipped.

To carve linoleum you can use cheap linoleum chisels. The skew and the V are used for the outlines. While the gouges remove material fast. Keep your sharpening strop close, because you need to keep your tools really sharp.

You can also carve linoleum with a CNC machine. V carving bits work great for stamps, especially if you have complicated designs. 

If you have a lathe, you can obviously turn a handle for your stamp. This is mostly spindle work. Once you turn the handle you can use wood glue to glue the linoleum on it.

If you don’t have a lathe, you can use a block plane and a chisel to make the handle as shown in the video. To make the base use a hole saw. Join the base and the handle together using an 8mm dowel.

With your stamps ready you can begin printing. Spread your ink on a flat surface with a spatula. I used plexiglass. Then fill you roller with ink and ink your stamp, you are ready to go. Experiment with different colors and materials. I use water based inks, because they are easy to clean and are more eco friendly. You can also create gradient effects. Add two colors side by side. Fill your roller by moving it back and forth only at one direction. The results are pretty interesting.

This is a really fun technique and can give you hours of creative fun. In the CNC files I have included a few vector designs so you can play around.

I hope you liked this one. See you soon with a new project!

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, that at no cost to you, I get a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.

Introduction to wood block printing and carving

Tools and materials I propose:

Linoleum chisel set

Carving tools set

Water based ink

Roller Brayer

Baren

Paper

Cutting board

Table saw

Air compressor, nail and staple gun kit

Circular saw

Circular saw guide rail

Block printing is an ancient art and craft. In this video I give you an introduction on woodblock printing, with a few basic tools and techniques you need to get started. 

Before you begin, it’s a good idea to make a bench hook out of 12mm plywood.

Use your circular saw and your table saw to cut your material to size. Then glue and nail all your pieces together. When you push your chisel against the block, it hooks on the bench.

As printing block, you can use box wood. It’s a nice soft wood for carving. But I would suggest to use plywood. It has less chances to warp and it provides a flat surface to work with.

It’s a good idea to coat your block with ink. This way when you start removing material you will reveal the light areas of your print.

You can use linoleum gouges or wood carving chisels.

Have your sharpening station near by, because you will need to keep your tools razor sharp.

My primary tool is the skew chisel. You carve from one side at an angle and then you carve from the exact mirrored side. This way you create a V groove. You can also hollow small tight spots this way. Remember not to force the tools or the wood. It’s better to complete your job with multiple passes.

The V chisel does a similar job faster. But I find the skew more accurate, especially in small carving jobs.

You can also take advantage of the shape of the gouges to carve circles. The gouges also help you remove material fast.

I begun by drawing my forms. Then I carved the outline with the skew and then I hollowed with a gouge. 

Sometimes your thumb can act as a brake. This way you have better control and safety when using your tools. Especially with the skew or V. Try to carve with the blades facing away from you or your hands.

For printing you must use a special paper than can absorb the ink nicely. I used water based ink. In that case you can moist your paper a bit, to help it open it’s pores.

You will also need a spatula, a roller, a baren and a flat surface to spread the ink. As a flat surface you can use plexiglass or glass.

Next spread your ink with the roller and ink your block. Take your moist paper and place it over the block. Add another piece of paper on top and start pressing with your baren. After a while gently remove your printout.

This is basically it. You can experiment with moisture and your pressing technique. This is something on which you get better and better overtime with practice.

As a printer you should number your prints. Once you are happy with a printout, you add it’s number out of the whole. For example printout 23/50 and you sign it.

The beautiful thing about block printing is that every printout is different and has a different texture. That’s why it’s so artistic. 

Block printing is awesome. I really enjoyed it, and I hope you have enjoyed it too.

But that was it, see you soon, with a new project video!

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, that at no cost to you, I get a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.